Monday, January 23, 2012

Visiting or Moving to Togo

The past few weeks we have been getting random emails from people asking about life here in Togo. After doing a quick google search we figured that maybe we should post some of the answers to common questions here so people contemplating moving or even visiting Togo will maybe be able to get a few answers here.

What is the weather like in Togo?

I arrived in August of this year, so have not been here during February -- but I have heard that it is brutal in terms of climate at that point in time. The heat apparently last until April. That being said, with climate shifts the seasons can be off by a month or two. (The costal rainy season, which we're told takes place in October, didn't show until late November) It is quite humid in Togo, especially along the coast, to which means you start to sweat about 2 minutes after getting out of the shower.



Some places have AC or fan access but don't count on it. For clothing, 100% cotton is the way to go, but not the thick knitted stuff the light woven kind (like button up dress shirt material.)

Shorts aren't really worn here by women. You will see them mostly in dresses, some in skirts and pants maybe even capris. I wouldn't recommend wearing short shorts as it will attract the wrong kind of attention, especially if you are working with local men. Tank tops are not a problem. Spaghetti straps are generally ok too. When bringing a bathing suit you can wear a bikini but wearing board shorts with it cuts down on men problems. Here one can't really swim in the ocean as there is a strong under current. There are hotels with pools and one at the BSL club in La Caisse/ Residence du Benin, so you can swim there for a fee.

What should I pack?

It's probably best if you bring your own hair and beauty products like shampoo, deodorant, makeup, etc. Bring sunscreen too as here it is crazy expensive. That and bug spray. You can get it here but it's cheaper from home. Just remember to put it all in ziplock bags in your luggage!

You may want to bring your own mosquito netting to sleep under. You can buy nets here but it is one less hassle if you bring one with.

When it comes to electronics, bring your own power surge protector as power blips can kill any electronics and make sure they are rated for 220V. In Togo, All the plugs are European round prong style. iPod chargers and memory cards are really expensive here so bring your own from home.

If you can't live without Kraft peanut butter, Stash chai tea, aloe vera lotion or iced tea powder you will need to bring it from home.

Do you need to know how to speak French in Togo?

My French is minimal but the Lonely Planet phrase book comes in handy. If you can speak any amount of French you will get a lot more out of your Togo experience. That being said out in the villages surrounding Lomé people speak tribal languages more than French.

I'm worried about the food, what can I eat?

We were pleasantly surprised by the variety of 'recognizable' food available at restaurants and markets in Lomé. We were a bit concerned prior to our arrival, especially as most expats consider this to be a 'hardship post.'

There are German, French, Ethiopian, Lebanese, Indian and Italian restaurants around Lome. You can't find a McDonalds here but we hear the local fast food joint Al Donalds gives you the same feeling in your stomach.

Most 'staples' are available in the veggie markets, just remember that it's all local produce. You can buy what is in season. Right now, cucumbers and tomatoes hard to come by, and are more expensive. Last month, you could get a half a dozen perfect tomatoes for 20 cents. Now, half a dozen sad looking worm eaten over-ripe tomatoes costs 40 cents.

Squash, lettuce, parsley, dill, celery sprouts (not stalks), beets, potatoes, onions, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, zucchini and most any fresh herb can be found at ridiculously cheap prices.

We buy our meat from one of the 'expensive' stores (meat is refrigerated!), but meat markets are plentiful if you fancy meeting the rest of the cow that you get your steak from.

I am a vegetarian what options are there for food?

Meat is generally reserved for special occasions in village settings. We know vegetarians who live in Lomé and they seem to be doing just fine. Most western restaurants have non-meat options. (Double check what you're ordering, as non-meat options do not mean vegetarian. It will likely be cooked in the same pot as meat, they just don't give you any.) 'Western' These restaurants are usually higher priced -- approximately 4-5,000 CFA ($8-10) per main plate. There is plenty of fresh fruits and veggies in season at all the times.



How safe is Lomé? How safe is the rest of Togo?

Now in terms of safety, Lomé is generally considered quite safe, as long as you stay away from the beach after dark and use common sense when dealing with pickpockets, dark alleys and such. Villages would likely be even safer as in about 2 minutes the whole village will know that a foreigner is there and they will look out for you. No matter where you are, people will ask you for money, gifts (cadeaux) and some are bold enough to ask for cars or laptops. Some will ask for your hand in marriage. If this thought is unnerving, wear a fake wedding ring!

Internet access in Togo- is it easy to come by or quite difficult?

Internet, depending on where you are, can be spotty or nonexistent. In Lomé, Internet cafes exist, but may be out of commission given a variety of factors -- power dropping, Togo telecom ( the Internet monopoly here) arbitrarily pulling the plug for no reason, or someone accidentally cutting the cable...

If/ when you find Internet, it will be slow, but it should be fast enough to Skype with, check email, etc. There are also a few restaurants in town including Casa Asia and Eiffel that have reliable wireless connections.

On occasion the Internet at our house is fast enough to stream TV shows from North America but they can take a long time to load (more than 2 hours for a 20 minute show).

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