Culture shock #2

A voodoo caretaker in a typical local neighbourhood grotto in Benin.

Voodoo

Is your business not doing well? It's probably because of voodoo.

Is your business doing well? It's probably because of voodoo.

Is your child not feeling well? It's because someone in the village has done some voodoo to make them sick.

Are you failing a certain grade in school? It's voodoo that has made you stupid.

Basically anything bad happening is blamed on voodoo and likewise, good things happening may be voodoo as well. 

Unfortunately, this thought that others can control your destiny has created, in our opinion, a large societal problem.

When someone is doing well (financially or otherwise) someone will do voodoo in an attempt to rob them of their success or transfer it to themselves.

Finding dead chicken heads on your doorstep may just be creepy, but it often escalates to poisoning, arson or violence. Not so much voodoo, but plain old jealousy.

In our observations, this has led to a society that really doesn't -- and can't -- trust their neighbours, family or anyone. Everyone has an ulterior motive.


Yovo Yovo Cadeau!

Say you are walking down the street, minding your own business when an ordinary looking fellow walks up to you, thrusts his open hands into you your face. "Yovo, cadeau," he says.

He wants you to give him a present (re: cash.) This man is a total stranger, in no apparent financial distress, asking for a gift!?

It can be considered rude if you look horrified, say 'no' and keep walking. You have to say, 'maybe next time or some other time.'

Being a stranger and having a different skin tone means that you are obviously loaded and in a position of sharing your enormous vast, expansive, crazy, superfluitious wealth.

The mindset is that a Yovo walking down your street is basically the equivalent of Santa Claus coming to town.

This can get annoying, but at least here in Togo people don't get too upset if you don't give them their gift.

On the other hand, in Ghana we were stopped by police officers on many occasions demanding that we give them their money! Or, "give me my Christmas gift!" (Note the use of a possessive. Somehow their money has slipped into our pockets and we have stolen it!)

Your problem, which I created, will go away if...

Which takes us on to bribery, a common practice here though there are attempts to crack down on it.

Being asked for what we would call bribes by police, health officials or government bureaucrats is common. In many instances the locals see it as a tip for good service to be performed.

If you want your documents serviced promptly give a tip and the worker will do his work. If not, your documents end up being rejected on the spot. "Sorry, it's not possible. Though I can make it happen, ahem.."

A mini play at the school highlighted this fact. The setting took place at a border crossing where two border guards were screening a line of people.

The first person had crossed too many times that week therefore they needed to pay something. The second person had a suspicious look to them so they had to pay. The third group did not have the right colour sticker on their documents so they had to pay. The fourth person had to pay because they forgot their travelers immunization book at home and so they had to pay for every shot that they could have needed in order for the guards to let them through.

We laughed during this play but when you have to deal with it in real life all the time it's not always so funny. 

There are different types of bribery, some of which are more extortion than bribery. It can get very stressful very fast if a police officer looking for his gift decides to impound your vehicle when you don't comply with his request.

While the police looking for 'infractions' aren't really geared up like this, it does represent what it feels like for us.


In our experience, if you're pulled over by a police officer who does not have a ticket book and insists you've committed some sort of offence, get ready to negotiate.

Personally, we find bribery difficult because it undermines the way we think a country should operate. A token of appreciation should be given for good service, not in order for good service to occur.

And as for the extortionist police officers, a can of Fanta or a box of crisps with the line 'my officer, it is so hot out and you are working soooo hard, would you like something to drink and eat," works a lot better than cash. And saves us time, as negotiations can get lengthy.

"Sorry we're late, got stopped by the gendarmes," is a common line to hear in Togo, and definitely part of the culture we had to get used to -- fast.

Culture shock #1

Culture shock is a term people living or traveling abroad understand. There are different types of culture shock but for now I will outline the reason I have been feeling the shocks quite violently these days.

There are small daily differences you notice almost immediately once you get to Togo. These things may be quite small and insignificant and can provide interesting stories and amusement when swapped with friends. 

TSSSSSSSSSS! To get someone's attention you hiss at them. Full out spit flying, loud cat like hisses. Want the attention of the waiter in a retaurant? Waving your hands won't work neither will coughing a loud ahem but if you hiss they'll be there.

Want to get public transportation? Make sure you hiss loudly because flapping your arms (or politely raising your hand) won't get you anywhere.

If someone is trying to get your attention they may also make a smooching sounds. And no it is not just men doing this to women, men do this to men too.

For you, special price. Haggling is something that is expected. It is not rude. But people here jack up prices ridiculously high if you are white.

For example a few weekends ago D and I wanted to take a moto from one part of town to our home. The motorcyclist insisted the correct price to pay was 4000 for each of us (roughly $8 us dollars). Having made this journey many times, we know the trip should only cost 600 each at most ($1.20) but the price increased for us because we have white skin.

A street vendor at sunset in Grand Popo, Benin.


Optimistic price hikes are often directly related to the largest bill (10,000 cfa) in Togolese currency, which means that all yovo's (white people) must be able to pull them from our noses. How much is this shirt? 10,000 cfa. And a ride to the market down the street? 10,000 cfa. Riiiight. When the bartering starts there, it's usually not worth even trying to haggle. Just walk away and find someone who isn't shooting for the moon.

I can go to the main market and the common 'best price' I can get for 1 pineapple is probably around 1000 cfa. Our house help Rosalie can go and can get 1 pineapple, 5 medium oranges, 2 large onions, 6 medium tomatoes, 2 field cucumbers and 6 bananas all for roughly the same price.

Ne pas uriner ici! Then there's the bathroom thing. Public washrooms exist everywhere. What is classified as a public washroom? The ditch, a wall, the side of the road, a tree, a bush, a swamp, a mud puddle, a rock. You get the picture. So many people do their business in public.

Now I know sometimes when you gotta go you gotta go. But one expects that with kids but grown men and women are merrily participating. This is also one of the reasons you are warned to keep your shoes on at the beach. Surprise!