Monday, January 28, 2013

What to bring to Togo with a shipping allowance

A fisherman in the Lome harbour, as a container ship is unloaded at the port.


One of the biggest unknowns we faced when moving to Togo was wondering what supplies would be available to us in the country. 

Through N's job, we had some space in a sea container -- but not knowing what was available (or affordable) in Togo turned the process into a bit of a guessing game.

As it turns out you can get lots of stuff here, but you have look for it. Things like kids bikes and couches are often sold roadside,  so if you see it: buy it. Tomorrow it will be gone. In the supermarkets, plenty of appliances are around -- at a cost and not always of the best quality. 

So, in order to hopefully take some of the mystery out of this process for others, here's our thoughts on what to bring if you've got a shipping allowance. 

Kitchen:
Stainless steel pots and pans. Teflon and nano-ceramic are everywhere, but getting good quality stainless steel pots and pans seems to be impossible. 

Slow cooker. Hands down, this has been one of the best things we shipped to Togo. African meat can be tough, and nothing softens it up like 8 hours in a slow cooker.  It's worth reminding for anything electronic: Togo runs on 220 Voltage. If you can't get 220V appliances in your country, try ordering things from Amazon.co.uk,  Maplins.co.uk or similar online retailers.

Rice cooker. Cheap quality ones are available at supermarkets like Horizon and Champion, but it may be worth investing in a durable one from a reputable brand.

Espresso/Coffee makers. They are available here at a cost,  so it may be cheaper to bring your own. Stovetop espresso makers and French presses are readily available here, as are many brands of coffee.

Blender/ food processor.  Also available in Togo, but at a cost and not necessarily good quality. So, if you've got a 220V one at your disposal, bring it.  Immersion blenders can be found in Togo. 

Household & living: 
TV, speakers, gaming systems, etc. These are all VERY expensive in Togo, and not always from brand names. Reminder again: 220V!!!!

Power regulators: we brought a large scale voltage regulator and battery backup for the house, however these can be bought in Togo for several thousand dollars. Surge protectors and regulators for individual wall outlets run around $150 depending on the quality. Buy those here, as they're not much cheaper anywhere else. As for the large scale ones, like we got, they are available here but not for less than $5,000. We got ours on eBay for under $1000.  

Upright pianos. You're going to have a difficult time finding a well-maintained one here. Talk to a professional before moving your piano from a dry to humid climate!

Fine furniture. If you've got furniture you can't live without, bring it. That being said, Ikea or anything made of particle board is not fine furniture!  You'd be better off getting something made here. 

Books. They're heavy, and very little English literature is available here. 

Office furniture. As with many things, they can be found here but at a hefty cost. (A basic $19.99 chair from Staples costs $70 here. I've also seen a $2000 office chair here that didn't look all that special.)

Pet supplies. Dog and cat food can be found here, but it is not always the best quality. If you have a snobby pet who likes more than Friskies or Purina, bring your own. Same goes for absorbent litter.  Pet toys are available here.

Big kids toys. Like bicycles or trampolines. These can be found here, but again not at a cheap price and not always at good quality.  Pool toys are plentiful though.

Mattresses. If you like spring mattresses, bring your own.  They might exist here.  Somewhere. Maybe.  I have seen spring mattresses on promotion, but quality and cost are questionable.

Vehicles. We know people who have imported their vehicles, and if you want to avoid the hassle of buying a car of questionable history here in Togo, it is an option.  Don't bother importing anything without four-wheel-drive or smaller than an SUV. The potholes will eat it alive. It is very important to remember that import fees on vehicles can go up to 52% of it's value. That's before bribes and imaginary 'port exit fees.'

Lastly, and this applies to all things on the list, bringing more than two of any one thing may result in customs wanting you to pay duties. Please do your due diligence and speak to customs officials before you bring things, we're not customs officials! All this is based on our experiences and what we've learned from others.

Monday, January 21, 2013

Best Restaurants: Alt München



While the main restaurant is indoors (at left) they also have an outdoor seating area.

Coming from German heritage, one of the most pleasant surprises was to hear about a German restaurant in Togo. 

Alt München, situated near the port just next to the Seamans Mission, definitely helps fill the craving for German cooking. 

From the European styled facade, to the booth seating and selection of German beverages -- Alt München is the place to go if you're looking for German food. It's also the only place in Lome. 

To be honest, we've both got our favourite dishes and don't stray far from those.

The cote de porc forestiere (Jägerschnitzel) is smothered in a mushroom gravy and served with spätzle and red cabbage. Yum.

N's favourite is the cordon bleu. It's a huge portion and best of all the meat is soft and chewable!

Deserts are also very tasty (try the flambeed cherry ice cream -- no idea what it's called on the menu) but usually we are too full to order. 

And if you're not itching to go yet: they've got free wifi. 

Cote de porc forestiere.

Talk to the owners about whale watching (September through November) and deep sea fishing opportunities. 

Notes:
Closed Wednesday. 
Telephone: 22 27 63 21

And at this point in our restaurant reviews it's worth noting a few things: This is Togo. We're not giving reviews by western standards. Food at all the places we review will be edible, tasty and not make you sick. We're not promising perfect presentation, or even the best cuts of meat.  Also, many restaurants employ several chefs -- and sometimes one is much better than the other, so going at lunch may yield totally different results than dinner for the same dish. 

Monday, January 14, 2013

Get to know this man


One of the most helpful people we've met here in Togo is a carpenter. 

Depending on your living situation here, you may need a dining room set, a bed, a rocking chair, patio furniture, a bread box or a picture frame. 

And Elias Nyakpor is definitely the one to ask. He regularly works with embassies and expats and his quality of workmanship is very high. 

Our house came furnished, but Elias' wood bowls, bread box, spice rack and shoe rack make our home a much nicer place. He also made the backings for all our wall hangings.


Folding chairs, just one of the many things Elias makes.

It's worth mentioning that Elias can make practically anything from a drawing or a photograph. Just give him the measurements and tell him what type of wood you'd like used and it will happen. 

Sure, there are people out there who will give you lower prices, but guaranteed -- the quality will not be anywhere near his.

We know a woman who had a closet built and three months later it was reduced to dust by termites. It turns out the carpenter skimped on supplies while treating the wood. 

You may buy a table, only to have it split down the middle because the wood was improperly dried. 

Save yourself the hassle and talk to Elias. 

He's got a Facebook page set up which showcases a few of his creations: http://www.facebook.com/pages/LEbeniste-Africain/293472607350311

His number is: +228 90 11 43 09

(Elias can also direct you to the best  safe-for-yovo-consumption fufu in Lome. It's somewhere under a big billboard in the Tokoin neighbourhood.) 

Sunday, January 6, 2013

Restaurant review: Cote Jardin

The spacious bar and dining area at Cote Jardin provides a relaxing atmosphere

 There are a few places in Lome that can make you forget where you are. 

And no matter what kind of day you've had, going to Cote Jardin and eating a scrumptious meal in their nicely decorated restaurant makes it all a bit better.

Tucked on a side street just off of the circular (officially Blvd 13 Janvier) near the beach, Cote Jardin is definitely on the upscale end of restaurants in Lome, but when you compare it to western restaurants: paying $15 (approx 7000 cfa) for a main dish still isn't that bad at all. 

Charcoal grilled chorizo
The food is tasteful and can also be on the creative end of things. Deep fried baby barracuda and antelope stew can be had along with more 'normal' dishes like charcoal grilled chorizo and steaks. 

Cote Jardin is also the place where we accidentally ordered cows tongue. It's a long story, but lets say we were tired, we felt pressured to order quickly and in a panic we pointed to an item from the beef menu. A moment after the waitress left, our French brain kicked in. Langue. What is langue. Tongue. Ahhhh! 

Let's just say that we're glad we ordered it at Cote Jardin, because they still managed to make it taste quite good. 

Directions:  5 Rue Simone-Dogbe, Quartier Ocam.
Telephone: +228 22 22 02 20 or +228 98 48 49 04